A Hidden Retreat Between Capitol Reef & Bryce Canyon: Boulder Mountain Resort & Hell’s Backbone Grill

Boulder, Utah

Perfectly positioned between Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon National Parks is a resort not to be missed. In the tiny town of Boulder, Utah, awaits a serene lodge and phenomenal dining experience, one that could stand alone as a vacation destination or serve as the exclamation point on a journey between Utah’s state and national parks. Boulder, Utah, should not be confused with Boulder, Colorado. Beyond mountain scenery and fresh air, the two have little in common.

Boulder, population 224, is nestled at the base of Boulder Mountain and surrounded by the wilderness regions of Hell’s Backbone, the Escalante River, and vast forest lands. It sits along Highway 12, about 47 miles southwest of Capitol Reef (roughly an hour’s drive) and 77 miles northeast of Bryce Canyon (about an hour and 45 minutes).

Nearby Escalante offers RV parks, glamping accommodations, fast-food restaurants, a Family Dollar, and a medical clinic. But why stay there when you can escape to Boulder Mountain Resort?

This remote town is rumored to have been the last community in the continental United States to receive its mail by mule train. Today, the post office seems lonely, with few visitors beyond residents collecting their mail throughout the week. We were greeted by the Assistant Postmaster, a sweet three-legged pup who stood on her hind legs to serve us at the window.

The Boulder Mountain Resort

The Boulder Mountain Resort sits in the shadow of Hell’s Backbone, a rugged, high-elevation landscape that connects Boulder Mountain to the dramatic canyons carved by the Escalante River and its tributaries.

The resort offers 22 rooms that blend rustic charm with modern comforts. Our standard room was comfortable and spacious, with a large bed, ample lighting, a small refrigerator, coffee maker, table and chairs, and plenty of room to relax. The property also features Hell’s Backbone Grill, the Little Bone Food Truck, a gift shop stocked with local artwork and specialty foods, an in-ground hot tub, lawn games, a cozy fireplace-heated common area, a bird sanctuary, orchards and gardens, and even a welcoming committee of resident cats.

Hell’s Backbone Grill

Oh my goodness! I am not difficult to please, but I can be challenging to accommodate because of food allergies and intolerances. I’m satisfied if a menu includes a salad and a vegan side. At Hell’s Backbone Grill, however, I was treated like a queen, while my husband, who thrives on meat and potatoes, felt like a king.

The restaurant serves organic, locally sourced, seasonally inspired farm-to-table cuisine and is open for dinner Thursday through Monday. The menu includes a great selection of fine wines and handcrafted cocktails.

From my research, I expected to have a couple of suitable menu options, and they all sounded delicious. Instead, there was a full selection of appetizers, entrées, sides, and desserts. I honestly cannot recall the last time I struggled to make a choice. I finally settled on the Backbone House Salad with agave-chili vinaigrette and a bowl of Three Sisters Posole. Already stuffed to the brim, our server surprised me with wine-poached pears topped with dairy-free ice cream. Dare I say “yum?!?”

I tried to hide my glistening eyes from co-owner, chef, and author Blake Spalding, who joined us at our table. She is charming, gracious, and a hardworking visionary, sustaining an award-winning restaurant in, excuse the phrase, “the middle of nowhere” for more than 27 years.

Little Bone Food Truck

The Little Bone Food Truck (cleverly named, don’t you think?) serves breakfast and lunch. My husband headed over for breakfast while I assumed that, beyond black coffee, there would be little for me to eat. He soon returned to our lodge room announcing that the staff was preparing a spicy bean “faux-egg” dish and a latte just for me.

I quickly scurried across the lawn to the bright purple truck adorned with party lights and colorful flags. While waiting for my meal, I browsed the adjacent market stand and gathered bags of dried beans, coffee, granola, and other treats to bring home. The night before, we had purchased both of Blake’s books, With a Measure of Grace and This Immeasurable Place, which she kindly signed for us after dinner.

It’s worth noting that all food is prepared in a kitchen that also handles wheat and nuts, so zero cross-contamination cannot be guaranteed. However, the staff is exceptionally knowledgeable and willing to adapt many dishes to accommodate dietary preferences, intolerances, and allergies.

The Farm

Why is the food so incredibly tasty? The answer comes down to two things: talented chefs creating unique, regional dishes and exceptionally fresh ingredients.

Much of the produce served at Hell’s Backbone Grill comes from the restaurant’s own organic farm. Freshly picked ingredients, vegetables, fruits, herbs, and edible flowers are a daily part of the menu.

The farm operates with a strong commitment to sustainability. Food scraps are composted or fed to the chickens, whose eggs eventually make their way back to the kitchen. Natural materials such as compost, leaves and manure enrich the soil and keep the gardens productive without the use of chemicals.

Boulder is also home to an impressive variety of heirloom fruit trees, which have long remained chemical-free. Depending on the season, apricots, peaches, apples, pears, plums, and grapes appear on the menu. The fruit is also crafted into preserves, jams, fruit butters, and chutneys.

After touring the grounds, tasting the food, and meeting the people behind it all, it was easy to see why Hell’s Backbone Grill has earned such a devoted following. The restaurant reflects the unique landscape around it, the community that supports it, and the care that goes into every meal.

What To Do Nearby

If you’re anything like us, you’re visiting Boulder for hiking, scenery, and to explore southern Utah’s canyon country.

A hiking adventure is the Escalante River Trail, located just minutes from the resort. This scenic trail winds through colorful canyon country without an entrance fee.

The nearby Calf Creek Recreation Area, part of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, is home to the popular Lower Calf Creek Falls Trail. The six-mile round-trip hike leads to a stunning 126-foot waterfall. Entrance fee is $5 per car.

Dixie National Forest offers additional opportunities for hiking, wildlife viewing, and escaping the summer heat at higher elevations.

Prefer exploring by car? The Burr Trail is one of Utah’s most scenic drives, winding through slickrock canyons, dramatic cliffs, and remote backcountry landscapes. The “trail” intersects with Highway 12 in the town of Boulder.

And if you’re using Boulder as a vacation basecamp, both Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon National Parks are within easy driving distance, making it possible to experience some of Utah’s most spectacular scenery without constantly packing and unpacking your bags.

Why Boulder Mountain Resort and Hell’s Backbone Grill Are Worth the Trip

After a day spent hiking trails, chasing waterfalls, and exploring canyon country, Boulder Mountain Resort and Hell’s Backbone Grill offer the perfect place to recharge. Their respect for the land, commitment to locally grown ingredients, and nutrient-rich, incredibly flavorful food make them as memorable as the landscapes that draw visitors to this remarkable corner of Utah. What makes them even more impressive is their dedication and staying power. After decades of welcoming travelers in such a remote setting, they continue to thrive while staying true to their values and the land they call home.

Learn More:

• Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm | Boulder Mountain Resort
• Capitol Reef National Park
• Bryce Canyon National Park
• Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument
• AllTrails in Escalante Petrified Forest State Park
• Calf Creek Recreation Area | Bureau of Land Management
• The Burr Trail – Capitol Reef to Glen Canyon

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