Assisi is the half-way point of my pilgrimage! Thoughts of arriving in Assisi, one of my favorite places in the world, have flooded my imagination during the difficult times of the trek. Walking to, through and from this peaceful town has given me purpose, rest and a resolve to continue to Vatican City.
Valfabbrica to Assisi
I exited the town of Valfabbrica with a skip in my step. This walk was different from the others. I knew where I was going and felt the peaceful pull of Assisi. This medieval city is where Saint Francis was born, rebel-roused as a teen, held aspirations of becoming a knight and ultimately gave up all material wealth to follow Jesus.
I walked on the path that Francis walked as he traveled between comunes, towns, and cities, spreading the Gospel message of love, joy and peace. The woods through which I trekked were lush with new growth, bubbling with fresh water cascades and alive with little creatures. I smiled and imagined Francis stopping to admire the rushing stream, the blooming flowers, the singing birds. He loved all aspects of God’s creation: the sun and the moon, the earth and the sky, the rocks and the water, the animals and the people. Francis found joy in the tallest tree and the tiniest buzzing bee. I want to embody that spirit of joy in how I live my life.
The day was sunny and warm. Finally, I shed the long sleeved shirt that I had worn every day thus far. The forest was comfortable and cool, but the farm roads that climbed over rolling hills were in full sun. It felt good to have the sunshine beating down on me, covering me with a veil of cheerful warmth.
Miles away from Assisi, I caught glimpses of the Basilica di San Francesco, perched on the edge of the hill top town. I walked toward the distant church, but then the path veered away taking me around the mountain. Eventually, I climbed to the city gate, Porta San Giacomo. My pace was swift, but unhurried, as I wanted to emblazon every moment and feeling on my memory.
I entered Assisi and began to walk down a familiar road. I could see my destination and my breath caught. At the moment that I saw the Basilica, my phone rang. Incredibly, it was Brian. He wasn’t tracking me on GPS and we had not planned a time to talk. Instead, he had a strong urge to hear my voice. When I answered, I was overcome with emotion. I cried as I walked, with him, toward the Basilica di San Francesco, the halfway point of my journey.
Technically, I had completed a pilgrimage, the route from Firenze to Assisi. I checked into the church office where I received a Testimonium of completion. Immediately afterwards, I entered the Basilica, pausing in each chapel for prayer. I felt blissfully alone in the vast church, oblivious to the crowd of tourists who were admiring the Gothic architecture and medieval masterpieces that adorned the walls and ceiling. Time was of no consequence and I don’t know how long I remained inside.
Eventually, I joined the throng of visitors walking along the busy streets. I stopped to eat at a favorite restaurant. Angelica, a server, greeted me with “Ah! You are back already!” and seated me on the outside balcony, where I could people watch and ponder. I ordered my favorites: bean soup and salad and gluten free bread AND a glass of wine. I was quite hungry, but had not realized it until I took my first bite.
With backpack secured, I walked on to my room at our regular B&B. Giordano, the owner, kindly escorted me to my room, where he had my previously dropped off care package waiting for me. I freshened up, unloaded my pack and filled up my water bottles. Subsequently, I strapped on my backpack and headed out of the town and into the mountains.
The Santuario Eremo delle Carceri, a hermitage frequented by Saint Francis, sits atop Monte Subasio, about 4 miles east of and 1,500′ above Assisi. I toured the monastery, which is still in use by Franciscan brothers and the Poor Clares (sisters). While wandering through the silent forest on well worn trails, and I stopped to admire a collection of bronze statues depicting Saint Francis and his brothers gazing at the heavenly stars. I sat on the ground amidst the statues, enjoying the peace that they, too, must have felt. Had they been in awe of the enormity of sky? Or did they rest, and just enjoy the beauty of the twinkling stars?
Eventually, I brought my thoughts to the present and circled back to the hermitage. I walked contentedly downhill to Assisi.
My evening remained peaceful as I enjoyed dinner in a small uncrowded restaurant and later fell asleep to the light breeze floating in from the door-sized windows.
Rest day in Assisi
I did not set an alarm, but awoke early out of habit. Breakfast in the dining room included TWO vegan, gluten-free cornetti (jam stuffed croissants), fruit and a dairy free cappuccino. Thanks, Alter Ego B&B, for always making me feel special! Upon return to my room and did something that I don’t recall ever doing in my adult life. I rested. I didn’t sleep. I didn’t complete tasks. I just laid on my bed and listened to an audiobook for 90 minutes.
Eventually I wandered into the town, visiting some of my favorite places, admiring the art, cultural traditions and historical significance of each location. I peeked into store windows and was grateful that I had no space in my backpack for purchases.
In the Piazza del Comune, I ran into 2 pilgrims whom I met on our first night in Pontassieve. It felt like a lifetime ago. They were leaving for their homes in Germany in the morning. At dinner, I was thrilled to see Martin (of the M&H duo). Alas, he, too, was departing the next day. All of my acquaintances had finished their journeys, and the next day I was to embark on to the second half of mine.
I walked on the cobblestone streets to the Piazza di Santa Chiara and watched the sun go down. It was the perfect way to end my rest day in a most beautiful place.
Spello
Physically, mentally and spiritually refreshed, I walked along the western slope of Monte Subasio to the medieval hill town, Spello. My walk was only 8 miles, granting me a full day of exploration upon my arrival. Spello is smaller than Assisi, similar is medieval style, but awash with bright colors. The town corridors, porch stoops and store fronts are embellished with flower-filled pots and trellises of ivy. One of the most photographed floral passageways led to the apartment that I had rented for the night. The inside was just as charming as the outside.
Tourists meandered through town and I inadvertently joined one group as they entered the Baglioni Chapel of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore. I had been exploring the chiesa (church), awaiting my turn to enter the chapel, as there was a private tour occupying the entire space. As they exited, I entered the room and was squished into the center of another large crowd. I had joined another Italian tour group! But the joke was on me, as I couldn’t understand a word that the guide had spoken. His lyrical speech, however, mesmerized me as I stared intently at the beautiful frescoes painted by Pinturicchio, a famous Umbrian artist. We were unable to take pictures, but I am sharing some downloaded from wikipedia (public domain art work).
Spello is charming. I enjoyed a relaxed pace of exploration into old churches, down narrow pathways and from the highpoint of the city. I ate good food and drank refreshing wine. After that, I drifted off to sleep in my fairytale apartment in the land of flowers.
Continue along with me:
Via di Francesco- Spello to Arrone
Via di Francesco, days 18-21. Umbrian medieval hill towns, olive groves, toileting, mistakes and ending a day ahead of schedule.