Via di Francesco – Consuma to Badia Prataglia

Bongiorno! Blogging has been a great challenge for me on this journey. I have found that editing my website through a phone app has limitations. But I am committed to sharing my story with you, so read on for my walk to Badia Prataglia.

Day 3 – Consuma to Stia

Consuma is a very small village, population <200. We were most grateful to stay in a hostel type lodge. Otherwise there is no hotel or bed-and-breakfast available.

Our journey included many miles of mountain views and a steady downhill trek. The path was constantly bordered by a vast array of wildflowers. The scent reminded me of honeysuckle and toasted marshmallow.

Within just a few miles of Stia, we passed a lovely farm, enclosed by both fence and large electric gate. The owner, and older gentleman, called to me and then joined us on the path. He was excited to show the artwork mounted on the fence. It is a crocheted version of Saint Francis as a pilgrim. We chatted briefly, and then he wished us a “buon cammini”, a good walk.

Stia is quaint, with restaurants, small shops, lodging and historic architecture. Its population is about 3,000 and we saw plenty of people roaming the town, only 3 pair that are pilgrims.

Our rented room was above a restaurant and we were stunned with its space and amenities! We had a large bedroom with a loft sitting area. The restaurant was packed at dinner and our food was superb.

Day 4 – Stia to Camaldoli Monastery

I awoke early, coughing with a very stuffy nose. When I tried to talk to Brian, I realized I had a bit of a sore throat and my voice was quite scratchy. We picked up some throat lozenges at the local pharmacy, ate a light breakfast, prayed in the church that neighbored our apartment building, and then we were on our way.

This was our most challenging day to date. The path was uphill on both roadways and through national forest to a small village of Camaldoli, home of the Camaldoli Monastery.

I was quite concerned that sickness would increase, but remarkably felt fine as we ascended. We followed the trail markers and at one point had the option to choose our pathway. The left route continued on roadway, where as the right option went through a tiny village, Casalino. That is the path we chose, unfortunately missing the opportunity to walk through another monastery had we gone on the other way. But I believe that we had an even better experience. As we tried to find a way into the town church, a voice called out to us, “hello pilgrims! Are you Americans?”

Before we knew it, an hour had passed. The voice that had called out to us was of an English teacher from Stia. This kind woman, a large supporter of the pilgrimage, also owns two hostels for hikers. She served us Italian coffee and elderberry water in her small kitchen and shared stories of the region, the trail and her life.

Regrettably, we halted our conversation as we still had many uphill miles to climb. From that point, we walked mostly on trail through nationally protected forest. I find that when I am in the trees, I hike the easiest and find the most peace.

We arrived at the monastery in great time, beating a huge rainstorm, but more than an hour. After checking into our room, we explored the monastery grounds, the sanctuary, the courtyards, the farmacia and the bar.

Dinner was at 7:30 in the large dining hall. Our hiking companions were seated collectively at one table and we were with two Italian couples who did not speak English. I muddled my way through conversation as best as I could.

Our food was fantastic and nourishing. But the longer I sat at the table the worse I’ve began to feel. That night, clothed in three layers of shirts, long pants, warm socks, and covered by a thick comforter and two wool blankets, I battled a fever with the chills.

Day 5 – Camaldoli to Badia Prataglia

Luckily, our hiking mileage for day five was only 7 miles. Mass in the sanctuary was scheduled for 11:30 AM therefore I remained in bed until after 10 AM. Although I didn’t feel well, I felt better than the preceding night.

Mass was celebrated by one priest plus 12 brothers, representing Jesus and the 12 apostles. It was an incredibly beautiful experience.

We wandered the ground for a short time and returned to the dining hall for a large three course lunch. We skipped the dessert option, grabbed our packs and hit the trail.

The steep uphill path from the monastery to our next town was through the Riserva Naturale Camaldoli. The forest was lush with green foliage, bright moss, and massive trees.

As we left the forest, we were once again blessed with views of neighboring mountains and deep valleys below. Eventually, we had a glimpse of Badia Prataglia and shimmied down the steep walkway into the “resort town”, as referenced by the locals.

Our apartment had a bathtub (YAY!), so I soaked in Epsom salt. After a large pizza and salad dinner, I was ready to crash, hopeful for a healthy next day.

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