Via di Francesco- Pietralunga to Valfabbrica

Letting go

I am a planner by nature. I embrace schedules, spreadsheets, rules. Yes, I said rules … Some of my pilgrimage rules include walking every step of the pathway, starting each day with daily mass in a local church, waking by 6 am and arriving at my final destination before 4 pm, with plenty of time for chores. Those duties include exploring the town, completing strength and stretching exercises, eating dinner and hitting the pillow by 9:30pm. Posting social media updates each evening and blog summaries twice per week round out the rules.

My entire plan is outlined in a seven page Excel document. The columns include “important” information such as hike day #, date, start and end locations, mileage, elevation, approximate walk time, lodging information and not-to-be-missed highlights along the pathway. Each of my family members has a copy of this so that at any time they can easily know my whereabouts on the path. Did I mention that I am wearing a Garmin InReach Mini, a GPS and satellite tracker and communicator? That way my family can check up on my location and ensure that I am following my self-imposed schedule. Ha! The InReach is for safety purposes, as it provides my exact location within a 10 minute window and grants me the assurance for an SOS outgoing call if needed.

Whew, that’s a lot of requirements for someone walking from point A to point B each day.

Spoiler alert: I have become a rule breaker!

Pietralunga to Gubbio

I walked from Pietralunga to Gubbio with a new attitude. I felt relaxed and at peace. New friends were walking the same direction as me. My confidence had been shaken after Brian returned home and I had forgotten that I had the ability to go on as a solo hiker. It took several days to realize that I don’t need the companionship of others to complete this journey. However, on the occasions when I do meet someone on the trail, I will view the conversation as a welcomed gift.

The day began with sunny and blue skies, however dark clouds appeared in the distance only 90 minutes into my walk. My route to Gubbio included dirt and gravel country roads that eventually changed to paved streets as I neared the city. I walked up and down the rolling hillside, enjoying the views of farmland. Tinkling cowbells guided my walk and I eventually came to a large herd. They were lovely creatures and I couldn’t help feeling sad about their eventual fate. For now, they are happy grazing on the bright green grass of mountain side pastures. Brightly colored flowers seemed to gleefully point me onward. I wonder how much longer I will have the pleasure of seeing and smelling the spring blooms?

Around 10 miles into my journey, I met a section hiker from Germany. I was thrilled to learn that he has visited Pennsylvania! My experience when I ask Europeans if they have visited the States is either of the following responses, “no, it is too expensive” or “yes, California, New York, Florida”. Not only has he visited PA, he was vaguely familiar with where I live. It made for a great conversation over the 6 miles to Gubbio.

Together, we passed through villages and stopped to pray in the Church of Saint John the Baptist. Occasionally, we caught a glimpse of the city in the distance. And then the rain hit. We increased our pace and walked 3 miles with heads ducked from the rain pour. At the city limits, we separated, as he was heading to the train for home and I was walking to the old town center.

The skies cleared as I entered the historic center, where my rented room was located. The city was crowded with people, some wearing costumes and others sporting green, white and red. I had arrived just in time to enjoy Festa della Repubblica, the celebration of the 1946 formation of the Italian Republic. Patriotic flags adorned the medieval buildings and the city was alive with music and entertainment. Restaurants, bars and gelateria were filled with patrons.

As per my routine, I stopped and prayed in any open churches that I passed. I was blessed to enter the church of Saint John the Baptist just as evening mass commenced. I toured the city, enjoyed a veggie pizza and then collapsed onto my large and comfortable bed.

Sleep was challenging that evening. My open bedroom window allowed for a light breeze to cool the air. Unfortunately, it also served to funnel the late night celebration sounds into my room. I don’t know how the Italian people manage late nights and early mornings, even if they do take an afternoon nap. Parties continued to at least 2:00 am, the last time that I checked my clock.

Gubbio to La Brocca di Valdichiascio

I awoke to my alarm, its loud “berk berk” sound jolting me from a restless sleep. It was the first time I did not awake on my own and I felt groggy. A little accident caused me to chuckle. I sat on the toilet seat to put my feet into my leggings, and I fell right through it! I was startled and said to the empty bathroom, “and I thought my butt was getting smaller, not bigger!” I was the only one who laughed. <wink>

Unfortunately, a rain storm greeted me as I exited my B&B. I walked to the Basilica of Saint Francis 5 blocks away and slipped into a pew. My backpack, which was on the floor, and my raincoat, draped on the end of the pew, created a magnificent puddle under my feet. I prayed for sunny skies or the patience to endure yet another unexpected wet day.

Since my mileage was relatively short that day, I opted to stop for a light breakfast at a bar following mass. That turned out to be a great decision. Not only did I enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice, espresso and a gluten free cornetto (pastry), I left the rain behind. The clouds dissipated and I departed Gubbio under blue skies.

I passed through small villages, “suburban Gubbio”, I suppose. The path from Cipolleto to Ponte d’Assi was a paved biking/walking trail. At its entrance, a kind older gentleman, who had been in deep conversation with a young friend, called to me. He teased me, encouraging me to “viaggiate in autobus.” I replied that I had to keep walking, but thanks for the suggestion of traveling by bus. It is these interactions that make me smile. He could have easily ignored me as I walked by, but instead greeted me with humor.

Valfabbrica, the next city on the route, is rather far from Gubbio. Therefore, I booked a room at La Brocca di Valdichiascio, a B&B along the way. The owner, Marina, greeted me warmly and showed me around the historic farmhouse. My bedroom was large and with lovely window views of the surrounding grounds. Two other hikers had booked rooms, but neither showed up, so I had the entire house to myself. Marina resides in a separate building that abuts the B&B.

Together, we made dinner to share. Well, Marina made the meal, and I “helped” in the same manner as my grandchildren attempt to help me cook. The simple meal was delicious and the conversation, superb. Hours flew by in an instant. Have you ever met someone and felt like you had been friends for a long time? That was my experience with this lovely woman. The night ended very late and I had no regrets for not making my 9:30 pm curfew.

Earlier in the day, I prayed for sunshine. God answered that prayer in more than one way. He cleared away the rain clouds, but also sent light in the form of genuinely kind people. I am thankful and filled with joy. I feel loved.

La Brocca di Valdichiascio to Gubbio

Yes, you read the title correctly. I went to Valfabbrica by backtracking to Gubbio. My previous evening was so delightful, that I decided to accompany Marina on her drive to Gubbio. She had an appointment there and I took the opportunity to explore the city further. I wish that I had the forethought to schedule an extra day there, as a few evening hours were not enough to explore. My first task was to buy a bus ticket to Valfabbrica, grateful to have Marina there to assist. We were confused with the bus schedule, but she was able to clarify the time and location at both the tourism center and the ticket office (otherwise known as a souvenir shop.) I had 4 hours of free time. How funny. For the past 2.5 weeks, all of my time has been free. And yet, my rules kept me on a schedule.

I visited historic buildings, climbed to the highest city point, pondered art sculptures and window shopped. At an outdoor table, I ate a fabulous lunch. The black rice dish was tasty, especially paired with a glass of regional wine. I people watched while eating, easily picking out the locals grabbing a meal during the workday and the Americans who ordered cappuccino with their pizza. (Note: cappuccino is a pre 11 am breakfast coffee).

I returned to the church of Saint Francis and sat in the silence. Life is difficult with its trials and tribulations. We have fear, doubt, angst, frustration, confusion. But! Life is overwhelmingly filled with opportunity, grace, kindness and love. I have been greatly blessed. The challenges and difficulties serve to make the simple joys and deep happiness more profound. I wonder if we would ever notice the rainbow if we didn’t suffer through the storm?

Valfabbrica

With ticket in hand, I boarded the public bus that was crammed full of students. I sat in the only open seat, my backpack on my lap and hiking poles in one hand. We dropped some students just outside the city and then embarked on a windy road through the mountains. I glanced around the bus and saw many animated conversations and some sleeping teens. Meanwhile, I was holding on for dear life. Feet secure to the floor and core engaged, I struggled to keep my backpack in place and my butt in the seat! The bus driver flew around the curves and then slammed on the brakes as he came upon a speedy cyclist. He passed the rider with a jerk of the wheel and I felt like Harry Potter on the Nightbus.

I turned to the teenager on my right and asked some simple questions, hoping that she would reply slowly and with words that I could understand. She smiled and asked if I was from Germany. Americans don’t tend to show up on the public bus to Valfabbrica. Our conversation was a language dance of Italian mingled with English. We understood each other completely. She shared her 17 year old dreams of travel and career and asked me about life in the United States. After 40 minutes, it was her turn to get off the bus. She gave me a wave from the sidewalk as the bus moved on.

The bus pulled into Valfabbrica and the only 2 other passengers, students, exited ahead of me. My feet on solid ground, I navigated the quiet streets to the hostel where I was registered for the night. After dropping my pack in the room, I explored the town. I found the church, the restaurant, the pizzeria (closed that day of the week) and the bar, where I ordered a Limonata, a sparkling lemonade and plopped into a chair until evening mass.

I entered the church of the Assumption of Saint Mary 5 minutes prior to the mass time, but it was empty. I stood, perplexed, until a bent older woman scurried toward me. She took my arm and guided me through the sacristy (where the priest prepares for mass) and into a tiny back room that served as a chapel. This was the most intimate mass that I have experienced. I joined 2 priests, 1 nun and 4 congregants to celebrate mass and vespers (evening prayers of thanks and praise). I was hugged by 2 of the parishioners, and 1 insisted on giving me her contact information, in case I was in need of help on my journey. My eyes were glistening and my heart humble as I left the church.

I was the only patron in the small restaurant. The food was simple and very good. As I sipped my glass of wine, I pondered all that had happened the last 2 days. I felt love, joy, peace, trust and confidence. Also, I felt relief. I can be flexible in my journey and still complete my pilgrimage. This experience is about more than physical steps along a path.

The opening hymn of vespers, written by James Quinn SJ, is the best way to wrap up my day and this post:

Day is done, but love unfailing
Dwells ever here;
Shadows fall, but hope, prevailing,
Calms every fear.
Loving Father, none forsaking,
Take our hearts, of Love’s own making,
Watch our sleeping, guard our waking,
Be always near.

James Quinn SJ

---