Via di Francesco: The Beginning

Thanks for following along with my journey on the Via di Francesco. Please ignore the typos and grammar errors. It’s tough typing on my iPhone after a long day of hiking. 😊 “The beginning” includes our arrival in Italy, pre-hike prep and walking from Florence (Firenze) to Pontassieve and to Consuma.

The adventure has begun!

We departed from Dulles International at 5:30 pm, arrived in Rome at 8:15 am (2:15 am EST) and exited customs by 10 am. There was no time for jet lag!

A taxi deposited us at the door of the Fourheads Suites, where we have stayed during prior visits. They graciously agreed to store 2 small suitcases until we return later on our journey.

We walked to Vatican City to find the pilgrim check-in point and to pray in Saint Peter’s Basilica. I wanted to have a “practice run” for my final pilgrimage day of the Via di Francesco. How’s that for positive thinking? We grabbed a late lunch then traveled by metro and 2 different trains to Assisi.

We checked into another familiar B&B, the Alter Ego, had dinner at 8 pm and collapsed into bed by 10 pm.

In Italy, it’s typical to sleep with the windows open. I was lulled to sleep by a rain storm pitter-pattering the cobblestone pathways. I may have even had a smile on my face.

Assisi to Firenze (Florence)

We awoke early, partly out of jet-lag, but mostly from excitement. After a light breakfast, we borrowed umbrellas and walked down steep cobblestone roads to the Chiesa di San Damiano for morning mass. However, there was an error on the website and we missed it by 2 hours! San Damiano is the church that Saint Francis rebuilt at the beginning of his ministry. We stayed and toured the beautiful sanctuary and grounds, walking back to town after the rain ceased.

After a tasty lunch, we picked up our packs at the B&B. I left behind a resupply package for when I return in a few weeks. I am grateful to the owner, Giordano, for his kindness and “no worries!” The reason for the resupply is that, despite having access to food in towns, I am unsure of finding allergy friendly food for breakfast and during my hike. Many hikers pick up their daily snacks in town before they leave for the day. I won’t have that luxury due to the fact that I eat a vegan diet and I have multiple food allergies and intolerances.

We hopped a bus to the train station, purchased nonstop tickets to Firenze and boarded the train. The ride was 3 hours, and we looked like bobble heads as we both dozed. Our train arrived late to Firenze, therefore we ran to the Basilica di Santa Croce to receive our first pilgrim stamp on our credential. The staff were locking the doors, but were gracious to assist us.

From the Basilica, we walked to our rented apartment in the heart of the city. Afterward, we sauntered down alleyways and through various piazze (plural for piazza), ate dinner and then organized our supplies for the morning.

Day 1 – Firenze to Pontassieve

We ate breakfast, donned our packs, returned to Santa Croce for prayer and a selfie. Then, we walked a route that was initially familiar, as we spent time in the area last fall. Our steps followed a river trail that borders the Arno.

The weather was drizzly and cool, and then suddenly sunny and hot. I was most relaxed as we walked further away from the city.

We walked up gentle hills and back down into villages and towns. The villages remind me of US suburban neighborhoods.

Many trees were filled with a fruit that reminded me of oversized crabapples. We saw several older adults picking the fruit and eating it. I asked, “che cos’è?” and was both entertained and educated by the one couple. “Nespoli, nes-poli, nes-POL-I. Frutto delizioso!” This conversation included hand gestures: pointing to the tree, the fruit, to me and my mouth. I tasted one and I’m not even sure how to describe it. It was both sweet and tart, firm but fleshy. A later google search confirmed this fruit is not grown in North America.

I love the lifestyle of Italians. They grow and eat local produce and even plant trees, shrubs and herbs in public areas for all to enjoy.

We stopped in the small town, Compiobbi, seeking a bathroom and beverage. I had forgotten how much I enjoy the Italian lemon soda. It’s sparkling lemonade 🍋

We reached our destination, Pontassieve, a town of old charm and modern convenience. We ended our hike by attending mass at Saint Michael the Archangel church, where we received our 2nd credential stamp.

Finding food was a challenge, as we wanted to eat asap. But, Italian restaurants don’t open until 7 or 8 pm! There are bars open most of the day, but they don’t have food options for me. Il bar is like a pastry/ice cream/sandwich/coffee shop that also serves wine, beer and spirits. No options for vegans with food allergies … except potato chips.

Wine and chips were followed by an 8 pm dinner feast of tasty foods. Replenished, we returned to our B&B for a restful sleep.

Day 2 – Pontassieve to Consuma

We ate a quick breakfast at our B&B and headed to the town square where we set out on day 2 of our pilgrimage.

It didn’t take long for us to hit a steep road walk out of Pontassieve. It was there that we met a German pair hiking to Assisi. Throughout the day we reconnected with them, and it was comforting having others walking the same direction as us.

Most of this section (or stage as referenced by VdF) is on country roads. We also walked through vineyards! Brian was most excited by the fact that we walked on the Frescobaldi grounds. See below for our last year-this year photo comparison. The first photo is of us atop the castle, the other is us passing by.

Spring flowers are everywhere! I chuckle that I was disappointed to miss the blooming mountain laurel and rhododendron of PA and VA trails. I cannot get enough of the vibrant colors everywhere.

Finally, we got to dirt trail for more than a 1/2 mile. I felt my shoulders relax and caught myself smiling.

Our day ended at a hostel in Consuma, a village with 1 bar, 1 restaurant, 1 church and some tiny shops. Our hosts served us a delicious meal which we enjoyed with another German pair, best friend moms who have the same first name. We have dubbed them M&M.

Luca, our host, regaled us with trail tales, history lessons and recipes. Dinner included fresh produce from his garden. Bruschetta, minestrone, beans, sautéed cabbage and plenty of vino. Bellies full, we climbed the steps to our room and I don’t think I moved until the morning light shone through the shutters.

Continue following the journey:

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