The Santuario Madonna della Corona, the Church of the Lady of the Crown, is perched upon a mountain ledge in western Veneto, Italy. The minor Basilica is a popular destination for tourists and Christian pilgrims alike due to the opportunity for prayer, the beauty of the church and the stunning view of the Adige Valley and neighboring mountains. Visitors climb the historic, 1.5 mile uphill Sentiero della Speranza, the Path of Hope, from Brentino Belluno or complete a half mile downhill walk from a parking lot in Spiazza.
It was our 5th day in Italy and we had already spent 2 full days hiking the trails of Cinque Terre, following arduous paths along the rugged Italian Riviera coastline. Our bodies had acclimated to the local time. Our legs were no longer sore from the steep climbs earlier in the week. We arrived at our B&B, Ca Nova, and had a fabulous sleep in one of the most comfortable beds of the entire trip. The Bed & Breakfast is nestled between an olive grove and rows of red grape vines, mountains serving as the backdrop. After a lovely breakfast that included delicious vegan and gluten free options, we packed our rental SUV and drove 8 minutes to the trailhead.
We followed the road signs to Brentino Belluno and parked at designated spaces immediately south of an old church that now houses the Associazione Service del Paver di Cristo, a nonprofit service organization. With packs on our backs and poles in hand, we wandered along the narrow streets of the tiny town to the trailhead. Before entering the path, we walked beyond the trailhead to find a visitor’s center, where we hoped to pick up a Pilgrim’s Credential, a document to verify a hiker’s completion of the trek. The visitor’s center was not open at 8 am. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find anyone in the area to assist, so we walked back to the trail and began our ascent.
The uphill walk
I am often quiet and contemplative during hikes. This walk, however, made me even more introspective and focused on prayer. The path is simple to follow but it is not necessarily an easy walk. The trail consists of carved rock staircases and stone steps interspersed with sections of uphill dirt path through the forest. Periodically, exposed trail follows a safe ledge along side of mountain. A metal wire rail secured to the rock wall offers support for those uncomfortable walking near the cliff edge. Path switchbacks make the climb easier than walking straight up the mountain.
My goal was to reach the church in time to participate in the morning mass service. Unfortunately, we left our B&B 30 minutes later than planned. We pushed hard to get to the top, but stopped in awe of the first view of the church, only .2 miles away from its entrance. It was then that the church bells rang followed by the beautiful melody of the organ. The hymn reverberated along the mountainside and guided us on our final ascent. Goosebumps covered my arms despite the heat of the day. My heart pounded not because of the work, but because of the beauty of the moment. We walked toward the Madonna della Corona, the music washing over us as we climbed the staircase to the wooden doors.
Exploring the church and grounds
We were dripping with sweat and took a few moments to wipe off with microfiber clothes. Since I had hiked in a tank top, which is not appropriate attire in Italian churches, I quickly covered it with a clean short sleeved shirt. I wore capri leggings and Brian wore long shorts, both allowable lengths to enter the church.
After mass, the priest stayed and shared history dating back to the 16th century. Not surprising, he spoke in Italian and we were hard pressed to keep up with google translate. Afterwards, he spent time with my husband and me, speaking in English and sharing more information about the church’s history. We then spent an hour touring the church and the grounds, walking through the side chapel that held the confessionals, and many rooms displaying historic artifacts. We stopped into the gift shop with the unsuccessful attempt of picking up a Pilgrim Credential.
Public restrooms and a small cafe served the many visitors. Although we had only passed one couple, there were at least a hundred people in the vicinity. I presume that they came from above the church, walking down from the parking area at the Stella Alpina Hotel or Albergo Speranzo. When my husband learned that we could have driven our rental, parked above the church and walked downhill .4 miles to the Sanctuary, I had to explain why walking uphill in 90 degree weather was the better option.
All kidding aside, I do wish that we had taken the time to walk up to the upper lots. I learned after the fact that there are additional sculptures and a view of the church from above.
Physically and spiritually fulfilled
Needless to say, the walk down to the town was far easier than the uphill climb. We stopped for lunch at the Malu Bar, a quaint restaurant in the town. It was then that we received our Pilgrim Credential. The photo of our Credential only shows our starting point since we were not willing to walk back up to the church for our completion stamp. The Malu Bar restaurant served a delicious pizza lunch. Brian’s was a huge classic Italian style and mine was a tasty gluten-free, cheese-free version. We washed it down with ice-cold Lemon Soda, a refreshing sparkling lemonade that quenched our thirst.
The meal sated our physical hunger. The pilgrimage filled our hearts and souls, bringing us both immense joy and peace. This hike will forever remain one of the most special experiences of my life. I am grateful to have shared it with my husband and am eager to complete similar hikes in the next year.
Brentino Belluno, population 1,363, is the site of the Sentiero della Speranza (Path of Hope) trailhead.
PILGRIMMAGE
Hiking the Path of Hope to the Sanctuary can serve as a Christian spiritual journey, or pilgrimage. Crosses, statues and the Mysteries of the Rosary are posted along the trail to encourage prayer and reflection on the life, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
The church celebrates Catholic mass every day. Daily mass, Monday through Saturday, is approximately 30 minutes in length. Saturday and Sunday worship is 1 hour. Check the church website for the current mass schedule.
The above gallery includes photos of some of the Rosary signs along the route. Below is a complete list of all of the mysteries. Click this hyperlink or the image below to learn more about the Rosary.
Credenziale del Pellegrino, the Pilgrim Credential
Hikers can pick up a Credenziale del Pellegrino, Pilgrim Credential, at the Malu Bar in Brentino. The restaurant staff will provide the free booklet with an ink stamp marking the start location. At the Santuario gift shop atop the mountain, Pilgrims will receive the finish stamp. Listed in the Credenziale are locations along the path for prayer, contemplation and rest.
Credenziale del Pellegrino
Benedizione del Pellegrino, The Pilgrim’s Prayer
Bless me Lord. Accompany me along the Path of Hope, give me peaceful encounters, comfort my heart, enlighten me in the darkness, increase my faith so that I arrive healthy and renewed at the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Corona
Blessing of the Pilgrim
ABOUT THE MADONNA DELLA CORONA
The Sanctuary of the Madonna della Corona, with the mountain rock serving as one of the church walls.
The Church design
The Santurario Madonna della Corona is built into the side of the mountain. Two walls of the church are hewn out of mountain rock. The western wall borders the left side of the nave, the main body of the church, and the front, northern wall houses the Tabernacle. The word, tabernacle, means dwelling place. It contains the Holy of Holies, Jesus present in the Eucharist and is therefore central to the Sanctuary of the church.
Art serves to honor the men and women whom the church recognizes as holy, saints who devoted their lives to furthering the Christian mission. Stunningly beautiful paintings, sculptures, mosaics and stained glass windows adorn the church, the Chapel of Confessions and the grounds.
Early history
Christian worship at this site dates back to 1,000 AD, when hermits of the Saint Zeno Abbey lived in the Baldo Mountain, secluded for prayer. Two hundred fifty years later, a monastery and chapel dedicated to Saint Mary of Montebaldo, was constructed. Its only access was by a narrow and dangerous pathway through the rock. In the 1430s, the Knights of Saint John, a medieval Catholic military order, took ownership of the monastery.
Over the course of the next 373 years, they expanded the site, constructing a large wooden access bridge in 1458, then later building and inaugurating the first church in 1530. An influx of pilgrims drove another expansion that began in 1625. A new and larger church built 4 meters above the 1530 church, incorporated that original building into the new structure. Improved access pathways and staircases made it easier for messengers to reach the site and more pilgrims flocked to the sanctuary on the mountain. The Knights built a hospice into a cavity of the mountain, providing shelter for weary and ill pilgrims. The hospice reflected the basic principle of Christ’s teachings: love God by loving others. It is not surprising that the Knights of Saint John have been nicknamed the Hospitallers. This large expansion was completed around 1685.
In 1806, the Knights lost ownership of the church and hospice due to the Napoleonic Code. The Code divided the law into 4 sections: persons, property, acquisition of property and civil procedure. I could not find the specific reason the property ownership was dissolved, beyond the fact that Napoleon and Pope Pius VII did not see eye to eye on matters of politics or religion. Regardless of the reason, the church site remained in tact and used through the 1800s. Renovations resumed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and included a Gothic facade and new bell tower.
The 20th century
Following World War II, the church was once again expanded, the renovation completed in 1949. Twenty-six years later, the final and largest renovation project began. In 1975, portions of the church were demolished, while other sections deemed “significant” were cautiously dismantled and recontructed. The new church, consecrated in 1978, was dedicated by Pope John Paul II as a Minor Basilica in 1982. A basilica is a papal designation, whereas the church has importance for the liturgical and pastoral life. There are only 4 Major Basilicas in the world, all within the diocese of Rome. The remaining 1,686 world-wide basilicas are designated as Minor.
Today, more than 40,000 tourists and pilgrims visit the Madonna della Corona each year.
The Path of Hope is a historic trail that connects the small town of Brentino Belluno to the Santuario Madonna della Corona. Brentino Belluno, population 1,363, is a quiet Italian town, northwest of Verona and east of Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) The steep pathway consists of rocky steps and trail that climb along the side of Monte Cimo, occasionally providing views of the valley below. Its length is 2.5 kilometers (1.55 miles) and includes approximately 1,800 steps to the doors of the church. The trail elevation is 600 meters (1969 feet), affording the hiker a leg burn and a breathtaking view from the top.
The trailhead of Sentiero della Speranza
Trail map and hike summary
Consider using hiking poles to provide assistance as you trek uphill on uneven rocky steps. If you intend to enter the church and you are visiting in the summer, make sure that your shorts are knee length and that women wear a short sleeved shirt, rather than a tank top. You may want to carry a dry clean shirt to put on at the top, as hiking the path in the heat of summer will cause loads of sweating!
Park in the town of Brentino Belluno, stop at the Malu Bar to pick up Pilgrim Credentials and proceed to the trailhead. Red and white blazes and trail signage clearly mark the path. Metal wire handrails afford the height-queasy hiker with a sturdy hand-hold on sections where the path aligns steep cliffs.
There are benches and large rocks along the route, providing ample opportunities for rest. Fill your water bottles prior to embarking on the trek, as the public water near the trailhead is not potable. The average person takes about 2 hours to climb to the top, so plan accordingly for hydration and snacks. At the top, there is a restroom, water fountain and cafe. Visit the gift shop to receive your completion stamp on the Pilgrim Credential.
